Esxence 2024: How AI is Reshaping the Perfumery Industry and the Implications for Scent Intelligence
In Brief
Artificial intelligence is transforming the perfume industry, not only in formulating fragrances but also in marketing campaigns, content creation, and packaging
Have you ever considered what new technologies are used to create perfumes? Even despite the seemingly “old-fashioned” nature of this industry, we can assure you that many modern perfume brands have started to use artificial intelligence in one way or another for various processes of their business. It’s not just about formulating fragrances itself but also marketing campaigns, content creation and packaging.
To learn more about how new technologies are pouring into the beauty industry, the Metaverse Post team went to the biggest fragrance-related event – Excence 2024, which was held on March 6-9 in Milan. We were able to talk to dozens of perfume experts and brand representatives, whose cases we’ll break down in this article. But first, let’s look at how and when the introduction of artificial intelligence in perfumery began.
The integration of AI in the fragrance industry dates back to the early 21st century when computational techniques were first used for the accords formulation and analysis. However, real progress in incorporating AI into other aspects of the industry hasn’t been accomplished until the past ten years, especially after 2019.
AI was first mainly used for smell analysis, as we mentioned before, which assisted evaluators and perfumers in comprehending the complex chemistry and psychology of perfumes. For these purposes, computational models were developed to analyse scent ingredients, their interactions, and their effects on human perception. Over time, AI algorithms evolved to simulate the creative process of scent creation itself. In order to suggest unique formulations, these algorithms use enormous databases of fragrance ingredients and raw materials, previous formulas, customer preferences, and market trends. This helps in the process of developing new products and makes it easier to develop new profiles and sides of something we already have.
Case of the “Carto” by Givaudan and “She Was An Anomaly” perfume
Carto is an AI-driven platform that helps perfumers through using science and technology at the same time. It is intended to enhance the olfactory performance of the finished solution by carefully using the special ingredients’ “Odour Value Map”. Carto allows perfumers to create and try new accords by offering a touch screen and a fun visual approach that allows them to develop formulas in a way that differs from spreadsheets or olfactory pyramid representations. In addition, the experience has an instant-sampling robot that makes it possible to produce scent trials smoothly and quickly at a pace that is unmatched by conventional techniques.
With the goal of driving innovation and digital transformation, Givaudan announced the launch of its Digital Factory in January 2019. Carto is now an important element of the Computer Aided Creation program there.
Calice Becker, Perfumer and Director of the Givaudan Perfumery School said: “It is a true complementary support to our work, it allows us to experiment much more than we can today, to dose our formulas in the most performant way, and we, perfumers, bring the creative touch, the one most important part that can’t be replaced by any system.”
One of the most significant cases of Carto usage is the perfume “She Was An Anomaly”, made for the French perfumery brand Etat Libre d’Orange in 2019. Since Carto created the fragrance formula while aiming to make innovative use of unusual scent components, She Was An Anomaly may just as easily have been called She Was An Innovation. This really unique scent, made up of just three ingredients: musk, sandalwood, and iris is unexpectedly delicate and feminine, something we wouldn’t expect from the machine.
“This perfume is the result of something unexpected. I played with Carto, Givaudan’s AI-powered tool for suggesting formulas. I gave it beloved and familiar notes. Carto suggested an overdose of two ingredients. I took care of the rest.” – Daniela Andrier, Perfumer at Givaudan.
When it comes to business processes such as marketing, AI is finding its successful application here as well. For example, representatives of the young French brand PERROY showed us their Instagram page and the visual content which they created with the help of artificial intelligence.
At the same time, Tjeerd Braat, the visual artist for the perfumery brand “House of Layer”, shared with us some of the AI-generated images for the promotion of the brand:
Ethical considerations surrounding the use of AI in the perfumery industry
The development of the beauty industry has always required significant animal testing to guarantee safety and effectiveness. Artificial Intelligence has the ability to lessen the necessity for animal testing by simulating scent profiles. The handling of animals and the creation of cruelty-free techniques give rise to ethical questions.
Large databases of currently available fragrances may be analysed by AI systems to create unique smell combinations. This raises the question of intellectual property rights and the contribution of human creativity to the development of fragrances. Perfumers may feel their craft is threatened by the automated generation of scents.
Last but not least, we think the most important thing is that the fragrances are frequently symbolic and have cultural meaning. AI-generated fragrances might not have the cultural awareness and background required to connect with a wide range of people. The concern may be lessened by making sure AI algorithms are trained on a variety of datasets and that human control is maintained.
We think that the adoption of AI in the perfume business raises important ethical issues in addition to fascinating new possibilities. Stakeholders must manage these issues with openness, empathy, and foresight as technology continues to advance.
While artificial intelligence holds great potential for efficiency and innovation in fragrance production, its use must be handled wisely to protect creativity, cultural sensitivity and environmental sustainability. It is essential that everyone related to the industry work together to create regulations that uphold ethical standards while using AI’s disruptive potential, even though right now, after talking to dozens of professionals, we can admit that the majority of companies are positive towards AI.
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Viktoriia is a marketing researcher and copywriter with a background in international relations. Her professional portfolio includes the writing of research papers focused on the import and export of products to Europe and Asia. Proficiency in the Chinese language and the time she has spent in China have extended her capabilities to master not only European markets but also those in China and Singapore. While currently living in Italy, Viktoriia continues to deepen her knowledge and skills in marketing and copywriting. Her experience allows her to perform analytical work and create texts on a diverse range of topics, ensuring accessibility to a broad audience.
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Viktoriia is a marketing researcher and copywriter with a background in international relations. Her professional portfolio includes the writing of research papers focused on the import and export of products to Europe and Asia. Proficiency in the Chinese language and the time she has spent in China have extended her capabilities to master not only European markets but also those in China and Singapore. While currently living in Italy, Viktoriia continues to deepen her knowledge and skills in marketing and copywriting. Her experience allows her to perform analytical work and create texts on a diverse range of topics, ensuring accessibility to a broad audience.
